Ah, Paris

One of my favorite quotes says:

"Tourists don't know where they've been, travelers don't know where they're going" -Paul Theroux

If this is true, we were definitely travelers in Cameroon (not knowing where we're going most of the time) but in Paris, we blurred the line a bit. At times we didn't know where we were, where we were headed or where we had come from-- all at the same time. But we had a great time!! Navigating the Metro system took some getting used to (made me miss the simplicity of the Portland Streetcar), but we managed!! Only having two days in the city we didn't get to see everything (obviously) but it was amazing to be surrounded by that much art and history! Everywhere you looked were intricately decorated buildings, statues and bridges- each demonstrating the passion and skill of true craftsmanship.
On Saturday Kelly, Haley, Jenna, Jen and I went for a walk-- to the Eiffel Tower. Well, we it was a lot farther than we realized, but we got most of the way there before we gave in and used the Metro. We walked by the Lourve (which was overwhelming- I can't even imagine what the inside is like). Sunday a bunch of us went to Mass at Notre Dame, then spent some time shopping, and of course eating!! A little later, Natalie, Johnna and I went to the Basilique du Sacre Coeur which overlooks the whole city. By the time we got there it was dusk and the city lights were just beginning to shine. Off in the distance we saw the Eiffel Tower light up and later that evening we made another venture to get a better look. It was absolutely breath taking. Pictures can't even do it justice. I've found that true of so many things though. (But then again, sometimes pictures capture moments that would be lost in the haste of daily living)
In either case, I had a wonderful time-- and the Eiffel Tower is by far my favorite; and if it hadn't been freezing I would have sat admired it all day (and night)

I have a few things I've learned during my short 48 hours in Paris:
        1)   A.  French food is the best
              B.  I need to learn to cook French food- probably with the help of Julia Child
        2) I would like to learn to speak French-- in my free time
        3) A return visit is a must (at some point-- maybe after I complete point 2?)

Out of Africa

We flew out of Douala last night and arrived in Paris early this morning! After dropping our stuff off at the hotel and cleaning up a bit (in a hot shower…with water pressure and everything!) we went to small café nearby. In the spirit of culture we had coffee (or tea) and crepes for breakfast. Yumm.

The first thing that struck me as a “you’re-not-in-Cameroon-anymore” moment was as we drove to our hotel. The cars were all within their respective lanes and moved in an organized fashion through street lights and roundabouts. There is still some debate whether pedestrians should be given right of way, but generally drivers will slow down if you find yourself in the middle of a pickle. Another thing that made me chuckle was an older women walking with her dog to the market and hanging the least on a hook outside the door. Now I also saw other people bring canines into the shops. In Cameroon, you don’t touch the dogs; they’re not friendly, cuddly or domestic and many of them have diseases we’d just prefer not to share. And here’s this older woman taking her boxer with her to buy groceries? It really stands out to me how different the two places are, though both are wonderful and beautiful in their own way.

I’m really enjoying my time in Paris: soaking up the food, fashion and sights! Today four of the girls and I took a walk to the Eiffel Tower. No big deal. (Eeeek!!) Tomorrow a group of us will go to mass at Notre Dame. Also, nothing to get excited about (Eeeek!) As we navigated our way around the city we couldn’t help but laugh at ourselves: five lost American girls, crowded around a map in the middle of the sidewalk trying to figure out what street we’re on and how can we direct ourselves to the Eiffel Tower. (Thankfully we saw it peaking its pointy little head off in the distance and were able to use that as our guide, but for a while there we thought we were in trouble). At one point we decided to be really adventurous and try our hand at navigating the Metro system. I’m happy to report that we were ultimately successful in arriving at our destination in a timely-ish manner but everyone could tell we were  new at this as the ticket gate backed up as we tried to figure out which way the ticket goes in. It’s times like this when it’s so important to laugh at yourself and ask for help. “I realize I look completely ridiculous—but could you help me?” It’s remarkably effective.

We have been trying to fit in through fashion if nothing else. Word to the fashion-wise: 1) boots are a must in any size, shape, color or form, 2) coats must be practical and stylish because it’s pretty darn cold and 3) hats follow the same rule as coats, fashion and function must work together. There are some great little boutiques near our hotel which has proven to be a dangerous (but oh so stylish) combination. Thanks to the sales racks I look like a true Paris girl! …As long as I don’t speak. And the camera permanently attached to my hand may give it away… But other than that, I blend right in!

Time Flies

Where has the time gone?! How can this be our last night in Cameroon?!

We left Mangamba this morning with our bags packed and hearts heavy. Many people from the village came to wish us farewell, asking when we will be back. “Next month? Next year?” they would ask. Hopefully one day. As we drove down the dirt road for the last time I tried to take in every little piece of this beautiful place: the lush green jungle forests, the palm trees, the signs, the people waving as we passed. It’s funny how observant we become when it’s the last? Buildings I hadn’t noticed before jumped out at me from behind the bushes and unseen landmarks become obvious. I do my best to notice the details but the threat of leaving sets your eyes on high gear.

Hopefully the 1,162 photos I have will help me remember what I love about this place and the many people who have impacted my life throughout this journey. It has truly been an adventure of the heart.

To give you a brief update as to what we have accomplished so far:

·      Taught 11 schools (countless children) about malaria, first aid, menstruation and HIV/AIDS

·      Provided 500+ mosquito nets

·      Completed 200+ health assessments

·      Provided mattresses to 16 WEH children

·      Paid for a 14 year old boy’s hernia repair surgery

·      Provided sunscreen, sun hat and sunglasses for an albino child

·      Supply the hospital with bags and bags and bags of supplies

·      …and fund acute cases such as dehydration, fever and infection

 We still have a long list of people that we would like to follow up with. Our working partnership with WEH has made it possible to help and support many individuals who’s needs exceed our stay. I would just like to say thank you, again for your love and support. Merci!!

It Takes a Village

We have finished our last week of “work”! And what a good week it has been. Monday we visited Kasafro, an HIV/AIDS community organization for people who have been discriminated against or cast out based on their HIV status. It’s amazing to me that in a place where AIDS is so prevalent there is such misunderstanding about the disease. (That’s why we included it in our teachings!) I know that spending time at Kasafro helped me gain a better understanding about what it’s like to live with HIV/AIDS. That’s something I hope to carry with me into my nursing practice. 

Let me tell you a little bit more about what it’s like to live in the village. From the highway, just past Souza there’s a turn off onto a red dirt road. This dirt road wanders and wiggles through the bush, dotted by villages. There are two forks in the road: stay to the left for each. You will cross a railroad track very slowly, for fear of ripping off the undercarriage of your vehicle.  All of the plants, signs and houses will be coated in a thick layer of dust from the road and anyone you pass will be left in a lingering cloud. You will pass through several villages, cross over the Abo River and viola! Home sweet Mangamba! The drive usually takes about a half an hour- driving in the true Cameroonian fashion: too fast, too furious. The electricity has been very off and on for the last three days (mostly off) which has really put a kink in our shower schedule. What a great reminder of what it’s like for our neighbors though! Just about every evening a group of us take a walk around to see what there is to see. It makes me feel very connected to the community and is often a highlight of my day.

Tuesday was our last day of teaching and assessments—which went really well, but it was kind of sad to do our teaching presentation for the last time. Our presentation is based on a skit that Julie would read in French while Paula plays the role of the little girl while I play the mosquito, buzzing around the room as I threatened to zip! – “bite” them—which the kids loved. (I would then change roles and magically became the doctor). We had such a great time acting out the different parts and being silly in the name of health promotion!!

Today we went around to a few of the villages we had visited early in the trip to tie up loose ends and leave first aid kits, school supplies and mosquito nets. It was such a wonderful way to end. The children greeted us by singing the hand washing song we taught them, in French, to the tune of London Bridge is Falling Down. So cute. But my favorite thing in the whole world was when the kids would pretend to be mosquitoes, creeping around making buzzing sounds, just like I did in the skit we acted out about Rissa the mosquito and how they can prevent malaria by protecting themselves from mosquito bites. (Pictures to follow—so cute!!)

When we got home this evening a few of the children we’ve become friends with were waiting for us. Just like a little kid I threw my things into my room and ran outside to play! Paula, Kelsey, Jen and I took a walk with our three comrades (ages 5, 5 and 6) in which we hop, skip, jumped, piggy-backed, spun and twirled. We took lots of pictures of each other making funny faces, putting flowers in our hair and watching the most beautiful sunset.  All in all, it was the perfect end to our stay in this small village that has become my home away from home. 

A Weekend Get Away

This weekend we went to Limbe, a beach town in Southwest province. We passed long stretches of rubber tree plantations and banana farms as we drove and I marveled at how different it is from the grass fields I'm used to back home. People were selling rubber balls the size of cantaloupe along the highway. If you asked me they looked an awful lot like a giant ball of rubber bands, but their bounce was quite impressive. And did you know that they wrap bunches bananas in these big blue garbage-bag-looking things to ripen them quicker? Learning new stuff every day!

When we got to the hotel I collapsed in a heap on the bed and didn’t move for several hours. It was the first nap I’ve had in a month and oh how I needed it. When I awoke several hours later I was ready for action! We went to a private beach nearby which was nice, but definitely had a different feel than Kribi. The whole “private” beach thing seems odd to me; an imaginary line in the sand that separates something so beautiful in its wholeness—but they didn’t ask me.  The beach was crowded and busy so relaxing on the sand was a dangerous business because you could easily find yourself in the center of a roaming soccer game, or caught by the incoming tide, or listening to an aerobics class a few hundred feet away. I kid you not. Needless to say it was better for people watching than sun bathing. (Side note: I haven’t gotten sunburned the whole time I’ve been here! Good for me and my 100 SPF sun screen.)  Did I mention I had my first hot shower since arriving nearly three weeks ago? It’s the little things.

As we drove back to Mangamba late this evening we noticed that the surrounding towns and villages were awfully dark…which probably means that the power’s out again. Which would then mean no running water. Low and behold, we were right. But it’s good to be home- with our without power; besides, the kerosene lamps add a sort of rustic beauty to the place. 

Hooray—It’s Friday!!

This week has been very full. I went to five schools, visited two medical clinics and did countless health assessments. Well actually I probably could count them…but anyway, I did a lot. I’ve already told you a lot of the trial and triumphs of the week but I hadn’t realized what a toll it had taken on me until our final teaching/assessment session ended this afternoon. Once I stopped moving, I was done for. Isn’t it amazing how the momentum of the week keeps you going but when you know it’s over…that’s it. We got back to the house at about four o’clock (considerably earlier than previous days) so I considered taking a nice long walk… but when push came to shove, I just couldn’t do it. I’ve been sitting on my mattress in air-conditioned comfort, just enjoying the time when I don’t have to think about anything.

It takes a lot of energy to be a nurse, whether in the hospital or in the bushes of Africa. During our first semester of nursing school I distinctly remember my professor telling us the importance of taking care of yourself so you don’t get burned out, always caring for others. Truer words have never been spoken. I’ve had my heart strings played like a twelve-string guitar and my energy stores completely drained. I think this weekend will be a very important time for our team to recoup as we head into our last week!!

Looking back, I have no idea where the time has gone. It reminds me of a Dr Seuss quote: “How did it get so late so soon? It’s night before it’s afternoon. December’s here before its June. My goodness how the time as flewn. How did it get so late so soon?”  It’s a good reminder for me to really treasure every moment as this amazing journey continues to unfold.

Chaos and tranquility

Yesterday we went to Saint Herbert’s school in Souza which has roughly a thousand students. No joke. Now I realize my high school had about twelve-hundred students… but these kids were all ages: preschool to seniors in high school. Maybe it was so overwhelming because they were swarming us, or perhaps because school was let out early and there were no teachers to be found. In any case, Team Malaria went in with our game faces to teach an enormous, packed classroom (at least a hundred kids) about how to prevent malaria and what to do if you get sick. Our teaching went well—and then came malaria tag. I would describe it as chaos… but it was worse than that. And not in a good way. Just when we had given up, feeling like complete failures, a young girl came up and very politely asked if mosquito nets still work if there’s a hole in it. (The answer, for those of you who may be wondering, is yes, if the net has been impregnated with insecticide the net will still deter mosquitoes) But in that moment, it was all worth it. Out of the craziness and chaos, this little girl learned something that will help keep her healthy.

Mission accomplished.

Did I mention that we were able to buy 500 malaria nets to hand out while we’re here?! (Another big THANK YOU to everyone who helped make it possible)

We held an open clinic at our house in Mangamba today which was very draining. I did assessments all day and my heart strings were being pulled every-which-way. Of the many stories that touched my heart today I think one that stuck out to me was an albino girl who had come in. She wasn’t even my patient officially but I am always concerned about 1) protecting her fair skin and 2) the social isolation that can accompany being different. We were able to provide her with a nice sun hat, sunscreen and sunglasses. I watched the mother watch her daughter as she was bestowed with these various forms of sun protection. The mother looked so happy and proud of her daughter, it brought tears to my eyes.

After a full day of assessments Paula, Julie and I went for a walk and ran into a friend we’ve made here in the village named Emillinne. She invited us into her home to sit, visit and play with the children. It was absolutely lovely, watching the sunset, playing peek-a-boo and hearing about this amazing young woman’s story. She has lived a life that I can’t even imagine. Twenty-one years old with three kids and just leaving an abusive husband without a way to support herself? I can’t even imagine what that would be like. The four of us took a stroll along the village trails, each with a babe in arms and it just fit. I feel so connected to the community here—I just love it!

“One’s destination is never a place but a new way of seeing things”--Henry Miller

Today Julie, Paula and I went to the district hospital in Mbanga to get a better sense of how the health care system works here in Cameroon. We also took a woman and her son in from Mangamba who we had seen last week during our “clinic”. Her 2 year old son was very sick and needed more care than we could provide so we offered to help pay for his treatment. (It has been such a blessing to have the money available to do that.) We were able to provide the little boy with transportation, consultation, IV treatment and three medications. By the end he was a new kid; running, laughing and playing! The total cost? 10,000 francs (which is equivalent to 20 US dollars). Isn’t that amazing?! But 10,000 francs is a lot, especially out here in the bush. Transportation is also a huge barrier to proper medical care; dirt roads and long distances make visits to the doctor quite the ordeal. When you finally arrive at the doctor’s, he will make a list of supplies that he’ll need, you go to the pharmacy, return to the doctor and he will carry out his treatment orders. It’s so different than our hospital units, each fully stocked with just about everything one might possibly need.

We took a tour of the hospital which included the maternity ward, laboratory, surgery unit, medical ward, dentist office and pediatric unit. The nurses were so great as they guided us through procedures and encouraged us to dive in, getting our hands dirty! Paula and I changed the dressing of a splint on a young man’s tibia-fibia fracture (both bones in his shin were snapped like popsicle sticks after a motorcycle hit him as he crossed the street). The splint was made up of pieces of wood, each padded with cotton and wrapped with an ACE bandage.

It makes me realize how lucky we are to have so many cool tools and gadgets. We brought some of the medical supplies we’ve been collecting for the hospital and the nurses were just thrilled. They love medical tape. And alcohol swabs. Things we totally take for granted.

Crashing waves and waving palms

I’ve never felt warm ocean water before, but I must say that I’m a fan.  We’re in Kribi for the weekend to get some much needed rest and relaxation. Our hotel is right on the beach and the palm trees provide the perfect shade.  Today Jen and I tried our hands and body surfing…with very little success. The under-toe was so strong that as we tried to paddle with the wave, the current out would keep us in the exact same spot… and the wave would either leave without us or take us for a tumble, but in either case, it wasn’t what we were going for exactly, but it’s the spirit of the adventure, right?! At one point I just burst into a beach-filling fit of laughter…and then a wave took me down which sent me into another bout of uncontrollable giggles. To make a long story short, we have a great time floating around in the salty, salty, salty ocean!! 

We went on a canoe-ride today on the Lombe River, which ends as a waterfall into the ocean!! Our canoe guide spoke some English and his favorite topic of conversation was Obama. The jungle around the river was absolutely stunning .  At one point during our boat ride, our whole group (all three canoes of us) started singing Disney songs. We started with “Just Around the River Bend” and ended with “The Circle of Life”. Our guides thought it was hilarious. And I would have to agree.

Tomorrow night we will go back to the village and I’m very excited for the week ahead!! It will be very full and tiring, but I’m ready. I’m ready to dive back in!!

We're nursing students without boarders

        Today we held assessments and teaching at the house in the morning. Erica and I did the assessments on the veranda (with the help of an interpreter). We saw a lot of elderly adults with musculoskeletal pain. One man for example is eighty years old, still working in the fields everyday complained of shoulder and back pain. Another woman in her late seventies described pain in her neck, knees and lower back which does not surprise me because she has been carrying things on her head (like buckets of water) for her entire life. These people work so hard their entire lives, it’s no wonder they hurt! It makes me sad that pain relieving medications that are so readily available at home are so hard to come by here. A lot of the children we saw were dehydrated, following thier recent illness, which is why it's included in our health teaching!! It's so much fun to see how our teaching plans have evolved from planning them months ago, to our first day here, to now. Plans never go as planned.
       In the afternoon our group split up to visit both the primary and secondary schools in a neighboring village. The little kids love malaria tag and the hand washing song (in French) is also a really big hit, everywhere we go. After our teaching I went to help with the assessments of the children. One little girl I saw had been sick for the last five days and was pretty dehydrated. We were able to talk with her mother and provide some oral rehydrating solution, stressing the importance of replenishing the fluid she has lost. We also saw several healthy children, which is always very encouraging!
It’s amazing to me to think about how much I have grown as a nurse even in the last year. A year ago, I had one semester of nursing school under my belt and now… I have one semester to go! In the last year I have learned how to ask the right questions and prioritize needs; today I got to put those skills to good use! I wish I could express to you, in words, how much I love what I do.

Travel is glamorous only in retrospect

           Yesterday we had a power outage that lasted all night and most of the day, which meant that not only were we stumbling around in the dark with no air conditioning but also we had no running water. Kerosene lamps illuminated the dark hallways but there’s no substitute for the comfort of air conditioning, although we had no idea we would have such luxuries! We were pretty bummed that we wouldn’t be showering after a long day in the hot sun however. It really helped us realize how privileged we are to be staying in Ruth’s other home.

Let me explain quickly: it is expected that in Cameroon, if you leave your village and are successful in your career, you will build a house in your village to maintain ties to the community since that is where you will be buried. Mangamba is the village of Ruth’s husband so they have built a home here in addition to the home they live in, in the city. In a way you could say it’s their vacation home- for when they pass away.  Now when we were planning, packing, etc, we had no idea what the house was like. We thought the sixteen of us would be sharing four bedrooms and one bathroom—but it’s more like six bed, three and a half bath... with air conditioning. We were expecting to rough it!!

Anyway, it does not feel like we are roughing it: eating three square meals a day, clean drinking water, sleeping on semi-comfy mattresses and having showers regularly. Between the dirt, heat and humidity I do feel a little more rugged by the end of the day but that’s what it’s all about right?! Getting your hands dirty.

Paula and I took a walk around the village this evening and it’s exactly what my spirit needed. As soon as I pass through the gates of our estate and onto the main road I am overwhelmed by the beauty and simplicity of my surroundings. The juggle surrounding the village looks prehistoric with giant palm trees and wild bushes. I hear a tree filled with a choir of birds singing their chirpy song and cars zooming by on the dirt road through the village. We watched an INTENSE soccer game which looked more like a professional game instead of “shirts vs skins” on a dirt field with makeshift goals. I was very impressed because my soccer  skill level is less than zero.  We continued on down the road for quite a while, made some new friends and even recognized a few faces from our welcome/dance party last week! I really feel at home here. 

I would also like you to know that I have a million-ish pictures that I want to share with you but because of the internet/computer situation it will likely have to wait until I return. Suspense can be fun, right?!

Right place- Right time

Have you ever felt like you are exactly where you are supposed to be? Maybe it’s the scenery, maybe it’s the food, maybe it’s the company, maybe it’s the work but this is where I need to be right now. In Mangamba, Cameroon traveling around to villages teaching children about malaria, first aid, and HIV/AIDS. Sometimes I think about where I am and what I’m doing here and at times it doesn’t even seem real. So let me fill you in on our game plan for while we’re here. We will be visiting schools and other community areas where we will hold a sort of day camp with different groups, each learning about a different health topic through different activities. I was on the malaria “team” and helped develop the teaching activities which include a story, question/answer and (my personal favorite) malaria tag.
 When we arrived at the first school where we did our teaching I was a bit intimidated by the number of small, eager faces looking at us. Once we introduced ourselves and began our activities, all of my anxiety about not speaking French and being “just a nursing student” disappeared completely. As we told our story about “Raissa” the mosquito, I went into camp-mode where it’s all about keeping the kids engaged and learning…even if it’s at the expense of your self-respect. These kids probably think I’m crazy—but if they know three ways to prevent malaria, it was worth it. Malaria tag was a huge success in reinforcing that you need to go to the doctor and take medicine when you get sick with malaria.  Kids loved the “doctor” props—but the “mosquito” headbands take the cake as a group favorite, and I must agree. They’re adorable.  (And don’t worry, there are pictures but I’ll have to get them from other people’s cameras)

One of the younger girls in one of the classes today was totally enamored with the color of my skin. She was probably about five years old and lived in a very remote village called Muyuka. During the tag game she ever so sweetly held onto my hand and carefully inspected it. She ran her hand along my skin, marveling at the fair color and freckles which probably looks very strange to her. In this moment, the whole world stood still: it was just me and this little girl sharing in exploration. I pondered what a beautiful gift it is to be human while she probably contemplated how odd I looked. 

In summary, I love it here, I love people and I love nursing.  My world is complete.

I could've danced all night

Today we arrived in Mangamba which is the village we will be staying for the majority of our time here in Cameroon. We are staying in the house that Ruth (the founder of WEH) and her husband built here because it is his home village. It is customary to build a home in your village after you have moved and become successful because that is where you will be buried and it’s important to keep those community ties.  Their home is beautiful and now we’re all moved in! Mosquito nets are up (an adventure in itself), bags are semi-unpacked and we have been welcomed by the neighborhood! All of a sudden my roommates and I heard what sounded like drums… so we go out to the backyard to find a young boy dressed in palm leaves and grasses dancing to the drums being played by other children from the village.  It was so much fun to watch him—and all of his energy!! He would run this way, then run that way, followed by a barrel roll which was made more dramatic by his costume of foliage.

After their performance the men took over drumming and the real party began! People trickled in and the dancing became contagious. Of course, it didn’t take me to get dance fever so after a while, after an older women from the village encouraged me I joined and had an absolute blast!! (My African dance teacher would be so proud!!) I don’t think anyone in our group, including the instructors, got away without shaking their hips—at least a little bit. One of the local women just howled with laughter at the sight of twelve American girls trying to mimic their movements, which was strangely encouraging; “yes, I probably look ridiculous, but I’m trying and you’re having a great time laughing at me, so we’re on the same page!”. I spoke with her later and after a quick lessen she gave me (and my dance moves) her stamp of approval—for not looking like a complete fool I suppose. But in the end, everyone had a wonderful time and I’ve never felt more welcome. (And don’t you worry, there are pictures…on other people’s cameras. I’ll share when I get them!)

Dancing African dance, in Africa? Check that off the Life’s To Do list!!

And so it begins!!!

Hello Hello!!!
After two long days of traveling, We are finally here, safe and sound!! I wish I could tell you everything that has happened so far-- but even writing this has taken longer than it should. Did you know that French keyboards are aranged differently? And spell-check is really getting on my case about writing in English. 
When we arrived in Douala Tuesday (at about 8:30 pm) it was very clear that we weren't in Oregon anymore!! It was about 85 degrees and I'm pretty sure you could drink the air. The airport terminal didn't even have windows-- which was a good thing because glass would have blocked the refreshing breeze that came through every-so-often. The last two days haven't been too bad thanks to thunder storms that occured the night before- which really helped cool things down!
Tomorrow we leave for the village, where the real work begins!! We won't have internet access so no promises on when my next post will be but I just wanted to assure you that we made it!!
Gotta run!! Love